How I Converted Attic Space Into a Bedroom

BEFORE

AFTER

Okay, Its taken me 3 months, but I am really excited that I was able to get a 4th bedroom out of our unused attic area. On our 2nd level we have a loft area. Behind the North wall (picture below) is an attic space the continues to the North exterior wall of the home and is normally accessed through a ceiling panel on our main level.  I had noticed that the loft contained a large solid beam that runs along with the wall and the loft floor sits 10" higher than the attic floor (no actual floor, just 2x4's that are part of the roof truss structure.) I also noted that because the exterior wall contained 2x4's laid width wise (flat against the sheating that is my exterior), it created enough space to access the main stem wall and create a solid beam that would run parallel to the other beam on the opposite side of the potential room.

So I decided to open up the attic from the loft. At first sight, it looks like a HUGE can-of-worms. I kept re-assuring Sheree that I saw potential, it could work. TRUST ME! But there were definitely obstacles to over-come...(Gas line to the fireplace, the fireplace flue, the HVAC ducting going in all directions).

The loft wall just before the big reveal 

My little helper using is measuring tape

 The first step was to lay a couple of planks so that I could distribute my weight across the ceiling joists and access the full length without falling through the drywall below. I then began to disconnect the chimney flue and re-route the gas-line to the fireplace so that it ran just underneath the ceiling joists. I also installed 2x6's along each original roof 2x4 to not only give it additional support, but also to provide additional space for insulation. We don't get snow here which is why the roof trusses didn't require much support to begin with, but we do get ALOT of heat so insulation will be critical for this space. 

 In order to begin to remove the original trusses, I had to provide temporary support to the roof line so I installed a beam along the top. I used a wood beam calculator from Cornell University to figure out the support I needed for the floor based on a 15' span. Because I was dodging duct lines and recessed cans poking up from the kitchen below, I had to alternate my sistern beams and space the non-sisterned beams much closer. I used 3/4 inch plywood which I did not initially secure down because I was constantly having to move them around as I inched farther to the left and right.

Each beam I installed took significant time in order to support each truss I removed. This also included supporting the original ceiling trusses so that they don't sag into the kitchen. The roof trusses hold both the roof and the ceiling together.

 Though the attic truss design does not require a center beam, I installed one anyway to provide an additional sense of stability and security to the roof line. I decided to make a bed nook for my daughter which would allow for the room to feel bigger and also provide additional support to the mid section of the roof.

 The next obstacle was re-routing the chimney flue so that it was still efficient, but was out of the way. I ran radiant barrier along the flue line to make sure I had no issues and made sure I had a 2" air space between the flue and the trusses. You can see in the picture above that the HVAC ducting box was right in the way and I now had to figure out how to run the old lines back across the room, but out of the way. I called in a professional because I did not want to run into insufficient air flow for the spaces since now I had to re-run the lines up and over the room.

 For the roof insulation, I installed styrofoam air vents to allow the roof to breathe from the soffit up to the crest of the roof and out the roof vents.

 I then installed 1" rigid foam with a radiant heat barrier against the styro-foam and then sealed the edges and seams with high quality ducting tape ($18.00 a roll and I went through 7 rolls).

 Cutting out the window was very easy as I just measured and cut from the inside and since I have vinyl siding, I was able to get a clean cut all the way through.

 After the sealed rigid foam, I used an R-13 (24" wide) insulation for additional security.

The ducting was all re-routed, but I was not able to move the duct box up or back more so I had to just deal with it where it sat. So I made a little storage nook to get the most out of the space. On the ceiling, I had to keep the ceiling low for a portion of it in order to keep enough room for the duct line and the chimney flue. We decided not to keep the ceiling the same height as this lowest point due to the limited space, so there is a small jog in the ceiling height at about mid way.

I was kind of hoping to get 2 bed nooks out of the space for sleep overs, but I didn't think it would work. In hindsight, I did have extra room on the left.

There is a small additional attic space just above the entry of this attic which houses the attic fan and more ducting, so I had to leave an access panel for that space.

I also had to leave an access panel to the Duct Box as it contains an in line duct fan for one of the duct runs.

I felt that I didn't want to fully give up the space under the bed, so I created a design that allowed me to use every space for storage. I am not quite sure what I am going to "store" in there, but at least its available.

The bed is made from 3/4" MDF and 3/4 Melamine Sheets on top. Had I thought about it better, I would have done the open storage compartments in the Melamine sheets as well. Instead, I just bought the 1/4" melamine sheet and glued them inside the cubby's.

The Kids already excited to "test" out the space. The Nook is made to fit a full sized bed. We thew in the spare twin so the kids could give it a test run.